Denali National Park and Preserve, a bastion of wilderness and home to North America’s highest peak, is facing an unprecedented predicament. A single 92-mile stretch of road is the artery that connects visitors to this majestic area. In August 2021, a catastrophic landslide at Polychrome Pass (mile marker 43) severed this crucial route, a disruption exacerbated by the more complex conditions created through climate change and permafrost melting. Don Striker, the former superintendent of Denali, described the event as “unprecedented,” marking a turning point not just for the park, but for all who seek to experience its grandeur. Currently, repairs are complicated by the harsh Alaskan winters and the nesting season of local wildlife, making a full reopening unlikely until 2027.
This temporary barrier to Denali raises a unique paradox. For visitors who seek the allure of unspoiled nature, the restricted access transforms the park into an oasis of calm devoid of the typical hustle and bustle of large tourist crowds. Yet, it poses challenges for those on Alaskan cruises who typically enjoy daylong excursions into the park. The loss of these bus tours may deter some, but for the intrepid explorers, this opens up opportunities that transcend the typical tourist experience.
Embarking on an Aerial Adventure
With road access curtailed, adventurous travelers can still reach Denali’s backcountry through exclusive fly-in lodges. These properties offer not just accommodations but aerial tours that provide unparalleled views of the awe-inspiring Alaska Range. One of the most renowned lodges, Camp Denali, has hosted guests for over 75 years. By virtue of its long-standing operations, the lodge retains a unique privilege to access portions of the park unavailable to the general public. Simon Hamm, co-owner of Camp Denali, states, “As the saying goes, ‘The real Alaska experience begins where the road ends,'” emphasizing the deeper connection guests can cultivate in this untouched wilderness.
The transformation from road access to exclusive fly-in services has resulted in a shift in clientele, catering to those who appreciate intimacy in their travel experiences. Currently accommodating only two dozen guests, Camp Denali thrives on creating a sense of close-knit community among visitors. This aspect of exclusivity promises not just comfort, but a chance to forge spontaneous connections with fellow nature lovers.
Luxuriating in Wilderness with the Pursuit Collection
Further along Denali Park Road lies the Pursuit Collection’s Denali Backcountry Lodge. This tranquil haven provides more than just rustic charm; it offers a full continuum of relaxation, including services at its Nest Wellness Center. Guests can indulge in rejuvenating spa treatments while immersing themselves in the stunning natural surroundings. Brittney Nordin, the media relations manager, describes the lodge as an opportunity to either hike the rugged terrain and experience Alaska’s raw beauty or to unwind in serene comfort, a balance that appeals to many visitors.
With only a dozen cozy cabins, Denali Backcountry Lodge ensures that the experience remains intimate, even as the countdown to road reopening continues. What sets this lodge apart is not mere solace, but the deepest connections visitors make with the environment around them. Here, time almost stands still, allowing for genuine moments of introspection and tranquility.
Culture and Connection at Kantishna Roadhouse
Unique among the backcountry lodges is the Indigenous-owned Kantishna Roadhouse. This establishment infuses cultural significance into its operations, employing Indigenous staff who share their heritage rather than presenting a scripted narrative. Jordan Sanford, president of Doyon Tourism, emphasizes the importance of authenticity, highlighting that Denali is historically meaningful to five different Indigenous groups.
Kantishna Roadhouse can normally host up to 165 guests in its 33 cabins, but due to current circumstances, they accept only 15 overnight visitors at a time. This limitation not only enhances the guest experience but also enriches understanding of the Indigenous narratives interwoven with this majestic landscape. As Zach Dunlap, the operations director for Doyon Ltd., succinctly puts it, “the opportunity to experience Denali without the crowds enhances everything.” In this era of restricted access, every visitor receives a personal guide into the heart of the natural and cultural richness that Denali embodies.
As the seasons change and the eventual reopening of the road looms on the horizon, those who ventured into the backcountry during this extraordinary juncture will have stories to tell that transcend the ordinary. The blend of unrestricted wilderness, cultural immersion, and serene solitude facilitates a profound experience, marking the present as an unforgettable chapter in Denali’s storied history.