In the heart of Glastonbury, a very unique establishment has emerged, capturing attention not just for its enchanting ambiance but also for the creative culinary vision backing it. Queen of Cups, a Middle Eastern restaurant opened by Ayesha Kalaji, has garnered a flurry of rave reviews since its launch. The establishment was born amidst the chaos of the pandemic, a time when the hospitality industry faced unprecedented challenges. Kalaji’s brave decision to open her restaurant the day after indoor dining was permitted shows a remarkable degree of resilience and belief in her vision. She recounts the paradoxical nature of the opening day: “It was a very nervous world…but we worked incredibly hard to create a community-based respite from the anxiety of the outside world.” This ongoing struggle for normalcy in the culinary realm has significantly influenced the hospitality landscape in Glastonbury, a town known for its spiritual undertones and eclectic community.
Transforming a Space with Love and Labor
Kalaji’s journey to establish Queen of Cups required more than just culinary skills; it was a labor of love. After securing the space on April 2, 2021, she and her team underwent a remarkable transformation of the premises, converting a dilapidated coaching house into an inviting restaurant within just six weeks. Her humorous remark, “If anyone asks if you want to turn a 17th-century coaching house into a restaurant in 6 weeks, say no!” perfectly encapsulates the struggle behind this rapid redevelopment. Not only did she undertake the grueling task of recipe testing and painting, but she also enlisted her mother’s help to jet wash the back garden, illustrating the hands-on approach that defines her journey. The charm of Queen of Cups lies not just in its decoration and ambiance but in the story of its inception that resonates with patrons longing for a sense of connection and community.
A Culinary Tribute to Heritage
What sets Queen of Cups apart from other dining establishments is its unique integration of spirituality into the dining experience. Named after a tarot card that symbolizes feminine energy, nurturing, and emotional connections, the restaurant embodies these principles in every aspect of its operation. Kalaji emphasizes that her personal values as a chef—compassion, emotional connection, and conviviality—are vital components of the dining experience at Queen of Cups. This thematic approach not only makes the restaurant a dining destination but also a spiritual haven where individuals can express themselves freely. Kalaji’s aim is clear: “You can come in and be whoever you want to be…just as long as you’re wearing shoes!” This playful invitation encourages a diverse clientele to step into a space where they can embrace their individuality.
Ayesha Kalaji’s culinary expertise, rooted in her Jordanian heritage, plays a pivotal role in the restaurant’s identity. Her menu is an adventurous journey through Levantine cuisine, characterized by vibrant flavors and unexpected combinations. As she asserts, the rising popularity of Middle Eastern cuisine has shifted the landscape, demanding greater creativity to surprise diners who are increasingly familiar with ingredients like sumac and za’atar. She genuinely relishes the challenge of introducing guests to textures and flavors that may initially seem foreign or bizarre. With dishes that engage the senses in thrilling ways, Kalaji aims to broaden her customers’ culinary horizons, service this local flare, and elevate the overall dining experience.
The accolades received by Queen of Cups, including a Michelin Bib Gourmand and the title of ‘Best Newcomer’ at the Estrella Damm Top 100 Gastropubs, have solidified Kalaji’s place in the culinary world. However, she remains grounded in her mission. “Some days I wake up gobsmacked that people have given us these awards… I’m just making great hummus!” she humorously reflects on the recognition. More than accolades, Kalaji’s true focus lies with her local community, regularly organizing events like LGBTQ+ nights, comedy shows, and jazz performances—opportunities for locals to engage and celebrate together.
Kalaji’s vision for Queen of Cups is not merely about financial success; it’s about shared growth and collective joy. “When I win, everyone around me wins. I want us all to win together,” she states. This philosophy indicates a bright future, one where Queen of Cups continues to thrive as a vibrant community hub while introducing more people to the rich flavors and inclusive spirit of Middle Eastern cuisine. In a world still healing from the pandemic’s emotional strain, Queen of Cups stands as a testament to resilience, creativity, and accessibility in gastronomy.