Nestled just 1.8 miles from the Chinese mainland yet over 110 miles from Taiwan’s core, Kinmen Island has always held a strategic position in the complex web of Taiwan-China relations. Once a battleground steeped in military conflict during the mid-20th century, the island now bears the remnants of its tumultuous history in the form of rusting tanks and abandoned military structures. Over the years, this backdrop has transformed Kinmen into a reluctant symbol of reconciliation and tourism. Few would have anticipated that these reminders of war would soon give way to a vibrant tourism industry aimed at attracting travelers from the mainland.
However, the quieter days of conflict seemed a distant memory as vibrant tourist operations blossomed after the opening of Zhang Zhong Jie’s café in 2018, situated within an old military fortification. With Chinese tourist numbers soaring in the initial years, Kinmen appeared on the cusp of a golden era for its service-driven economy. The café quickly became a hotspot, drawing busloads of mainland tourists eager to explore the island’s unique blend of history and culture. Yet, today’s outlook reveals a grim reality, as tourism—a linchpin of Kinmen’s economy—now hangs precariously in the balance.
The Impact of Tensions on Tourism
The situation took a drastic turn in August 2019, when Beijing, citing deteriorating relations with Taiwan, enacted restrictions that barred individual travelers from visiting the island. This was followed by sweeping bans on travel groups in response to the global onset of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020. As a result, Kinmen’s economy, heavily dependent on the influx of Chinese visitors, began to suffocate. The café that once flourished under the weight of tourist traffic found itself struggling to cope without the vital revenue stream from across the strait.
As local entrepreneur Zhang laments, “We haven’t had mainland tourists for years.” The impact resonates beyond individual businesses; entire sectors face significant downturns. The tourism industry on Kinmen contributed approximately $200 million to the local economy through Chinese tourist expenditures, transforming the landscape as businesses that catered to tourists flourished. It is an unfortunate turn of events that has both casual observers and local residents gripped with uncertainty regarding Kinmen’s economic future.
In their desperation, many business owners have pursued new avenues to survive. Local restaurateur Beddy Chang, once reliant on Chinese tourists for 80% of her business, has pivoted her focus to exporting goods abroad. Meanwhile, others like Wu Zeng Yun have redirected their operations from the shores of Kinmen to the bustling markets on Taiwan’s main island, showcasing a resilient spirit in the face of adversity. Yet not all have found success in this transition.
Former restaurant owner Lu Wen Shiung has turned to fishing as a means to sustain his livelihood, but with the intensifying Chinese Coast Guard presence and military activities escalating in the region, even this new venture is fraught with anxiety. There is palpable concern among local fishermen about potential confrontations while navigating these contested waters. “We might be subjected to some unconventional treatment,” he expressed, a sentiment that underscores the tenuous atmosphere existing in Kinmen.
Despite the disheartening circumstances, whispers of hope began surfacing earlier this year, particularly after a tragic incident in February involving the death of two Chinese citizens during a maritime clash with Taiwanese authorities. Following months of tension, an agreement was reached to repatriate the deceased, heralding a potential thaw in frosty relations. Legislators from Kinmen are now actively pursuing talks with their counterparts in Beijing.
In late September, tentative signs of recovery emerged when a small group of Chinese tourists made their way back to Kinmen for the first time in years. While this is far from a robust resurgence, it indicates a glimmer of optimism amongst locals and business owners who are eager for the return of tourism. As local tour guide Chen Hua Sheng notes, business relies heavily on connections with mainland China, further emphasizing just how much lives and livelihoods in Kinmen hinge on the dynamics of cross-strait relations.
The path forward for Kinmen’s tourism industry remains uncertain, clouded by the complexities of Taiwanese and Chinese geopolitics. Yet the resilience and adaptability of its residents shine through amidst adversity. The café that once buzzed with excitement may be quieter now, but it stands as a testament to the intertwining of culture and history, and the hope that one day, Kinmen will again welcome the mainland tourists whose absence is felt deeply by all. While there’s no magic solution to this multifaceted dilemma, fostering bilateral dialogue will be crucial in paving the way for Kinmen’s revitalization as a vibrant tourist destination.